Prada’s ₹1.2 lakh sandals mimicking Kolhapuri chappals have reignited concerns over international protection of Indian handicrafts. Despite GI registration, artisans lack global legal recourse. The Sprouts SIT calls for urgent Indian government intervention and WIPO-level enforcement mechanisms to protect India’s cultural and economic interests in traditional crafts.
Italian Luxury Brand Faces Global Backlash Over ‘Copied’ Kolhapuri Chappal Design
In June 2025, global luxury house Prada launched an open-toe sandal priced at ₹1.2 lakh per pair, resembling India’s iconic Kolhapuri chappal. The design mirrored the handcrafted aesthetic and heritage construction of traditional Kolhapuris but failed to credit Indian artisans or the Kolhapur region, where the design has been cultivated for centuries.
This has triggered outrage among craft communities, policymakers, and IP experts in India, who view this as a classic case of cultural appropriation without recognition or compensation. The Sprouts News Investigation Team (SIT) has found that artisans, despite protection under India’s Geographical Indications Act, 1999, remain vulnerable in international markets.
GI Act’s Limitations: Protection Doesn’t Cross Borders
Stakeholders argue that India’s GI Act lacks cross-border enforcement mechanisms. A PIL filed in the Bombay High Court was dismissed citing “statutory remedy” under the GI Act—but that remedy is ineffective internationally. The Sprouts SIT team discovered that even successful GI enforcement in Indian courts often fails to prevent foreign exploitation due to lack of reciprocal legal frameworks abroad.
Under WTO’s TRIPS Agreement, stronger protections are granted to wines and spirits—not handicrafts. Thus, traditional arts like Kolhapuris are left exposed. Seeking enforcement in jurisdictions like the EU is costly and impractical for India’s rural artisans.
Government Action Needed: Time to Internationalize Handicraft GI Tags
India has previously secured GI rights abroad for agri-products like Basmati rice via APEDA. A similar push is overdue for crafts like Kolhapuri chappals, which are not just footwear but cultural artefacts representing centuries-old heritage. The Sprouts SIT emphasizes that India must pursue WIPO-level negotiations or bilateral trade agreements to protect its non-agri GI products.
Sources suggest that talks are underway between Prada and MACCIA (Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Agriculture). If handled right, this could set a global precedent for ethical fashion partnerships.
Ethical Fashion or Exploitation? Prada Must Set Precedent
While discussions continue, this controversy should serve as a wake-up call for both policymakers and luxury brands. Brands like Prada must move from appropriation to collaboration, ensuring artisans are acknowledged and compensated.
The Sprouts News Investigation Team (SIT) urges the Ministry of Commerce and the Textile Ministry to set up a dedicated international GI enforcement body, especially for non-agri products. Without such mechanisms, the livelihoods of thousands of Indian artisans remain at risk.
Previous Controversies Surrounding Prada: From Copycat Scandals to Labor Allegations
Sprouts News Investigation Team (SIT) has reviewed multiple prior controversies involving Prada, which raise significant ethical, reputational, and regulatory questions.
Workplace Discrimination and Labour Rights Issues
Prada faced high-profile allegations of gender discrimination and sexual harassment in Japan, when former senior manager Rina Bovrisse sued the company. The lawsuit was escalated to the UN Committee on Economic, Social and Cultural Rights. The case spotlighted labor practices in luxury fashion and internal structural failures.
Separately, the brand came under scrutiny for sourcing leather from DESA, a Turkish supplier found guilty of union busting. The Clean Clothes Campaign criticized Prada for insufficient oversight of labour conditions.
Prada has repeatedly been accused of copying designs from smaller brands, notably imitating The Row’s Margaux bag—claims raised in fashion forums as “blatant duplicates.” 
More recently, the Kolhapuri sandal controversy emerged, where Prada’s open-toe leather sandals resurfaced the debate around cultural appropriation. The brand initially failed to credit the artisans behind India’s GI-tagged Kolhapuri chappals. After online backlash, Prada acknowledged the inspiration and initiated talks with MACCIA and artisans for a “Made in India” collaboration.
Quality Complaints & Customer Experience Issues
Consumer forums such as Reddit report subpar stitching and material quality in Prada products, which contradicts the brand’s high-end reputation. Comments included:
“Prada may be a luxury brand but their quality is just horrendous tbh.”
There are numerous anecdotes of delayed repairs, expired warranties, and poor customer service—even for items costing thousands of dollars.
Ethical Missteps: Blackface, Animal Rights & Sustainability
In 2018, Prada was forced to withdraw a collection featuring controversial blackface imagery after public uproar, prompting the creation of a diversity advisory council led by Ava DuVernay and Theaster Gates.
The brand has also received criticism over use of ostrich leather, linked to animal cruelty, and faced accusations of tax evasion in Italy, which ultimately led to a settlement of €420 million.
Why It Matters: Patterns of Ethical and Legal Concerns
These controversies, examined by the Sprouts SIT, highlight recurring issues across distinct domains:
•A disregard for cultural source attribution, especially in luxury creative design
•Systemic challenges in workplace equity, labor rights, and supply chain oversight
•Inconsistent delivery of the luxury brand promise to consumers
•Weak governance mechanisms that allow missteps to persist unaddressed
These problems extend beyond public relations—they signal the need for stronger policies, regulatory scrutiny, and ethical standards within the global luxury fashion industry.
Key Takeaways for Policymakers & Stakeholders
•Boost GI enforcement frameworks—especially for non-agricultural products like artisanal crafts.
•Mandate corporate accountability, ensuring transparency in labor practices and representation of marginalized artisan communities.
•Create independent oversight for cultural appropriation and ethical compliance within global brands.
Sprouts News Investigation Team (SIT) continues to monitor Prada’s evolving response, including policy commitments and artisan partnerships. Let me know if you’d like a Marathi briefing, social media highlight pack, or a detailed PDF dossier.
Unmesh Gujarathi is an Indian investigative journalist and media professional with over 28 years of experience in print and digital journalism. He is the Founder and Editor-in-Chief of Sprouts News, an independent investigative publication headquartered in Mumbai, established in 2020.
Throughout his career, he has held editorial positions at leading media organisations, including:
DNA (Daily News & Analysis)
The Times Group
The Free Press Journal
Saamana
Dabang Dunia
Lokmat
His reporting has focused on investigative journalism, governance accountability, public policy, corruption, crime reporting and the Right to Information (RTI) framework in India.
As Editor-in-Chief of Sprouts News, he oversees:
Investigative direction
Editorial standards and verification protocols
Legal compliance and ethical review
Newsroom operations and accountability processes
Education & Academic Background
Unmesh Gujarathi holds:
Master of Commerce (M.Com)
Master of Business Administration (MBA)
Degree in Journalism
His academic background supports his reporting in areas related to governance, financial systems, public administration and regulatory matters.
Published Works & Contributions
In addition to newsroom leadership, he is the author of more than 12 books in Marathi and English. His published works cover topics including:
The RTI Act and transparency mechanisms
Political leadership, including writings on Balasaheb Thackeray
Career guidance
Investigative journalism practices
He has contributed to national dailies and digital media platforms, focusing on evidence-based reporting and public-interest journalism.